Monday, January 24, 2011
Philippines Fiestas
Fiestas in the Philippines are held to celebrate a patron saint (the Philippines is the only majority-Christian country in Southeast Asia) or to mark the passage of the seasons, depending on which part of the country you're in. The sole exception is Christmas, where the whole country breaks out in celebrations that can begin long before December.
The roots of Philippine fiestas go back even further - back to before the Spanish conquistadores arrived in the 1500s. In the old animistic culture, regular ritual offerings were made to placate the gods, and these offerings evolved into the fiestas we know today. A wonderful fiesta season means good luck for the rest of the year.
For individual Filipinos, fiestas can be a way of supplicating the heavens or to make amends for past wrongs. In one place, penitents lash themselves with whips; in another, childless women dance on the streets hoping for the blessing of a child.
Every town and city in the Philippines has a fiesta of its own; whatever time of the year it is, there's sure to be a fiesta going on somewhere!
Feast of the Black Nazarene
Quiapo, Manila
January 9
The Black Nazarene is an antique hand-carved statue of Jesus Christ, which is brought out to the streets of Manila's Quiapo district to lead a huge procession of thousands of barefoot penitents, all massing around the rolling statue yelling "Viva Se?or!"
Penitents believe that touching the statue will grant one a miracle in one's life; stories have been heard of diseases healed and personal problems solved after touching the blackened statue.
The carving is black, legend says, because the ship that brought it caught fire along the way; despite its charred state, it is a prized icon for Manila's faithful.
Ati-Atihan Festival
Kalibo, Aklan
January 1-16
The Ati-Atihan Festival honors the "Santo Ni?o", or Christ Child, but draws its roots from much older traditions. Festival participants wear blackface and tribal clothing to imitate the aboriginal "Ati" tribespeople who welcomed a group of Malay datus fleeing Borneo in the 13th century.
The festival has evolved to become a Mardi Gras-like explosion of activity - three days of parades and general merrymaking that culminate in a large procession. Novena masses for the Christ Child give way to drumbeats and the streets throbbing with dancing townsfolk.
On the last day, different "tribes" played by townsfolk in blackface and elaborate costumes take to the streets, competing for prize money and year-long glory. The festival ends with a masquerade ball.
Other festivals in the Philippines, like the Sinulog in Cebu and Dinagyang in Iloilo, are directly inspired by the Ati-Atihan.
Sinulog Festival
Cebu City
January 6-21
Like the Ati-atihan, the Sinulog Festival is another Catholic festival honoring the Christ Child (Santo Ni?o), with deeper pagan roots. The feast draws its origin from an image of the Santo Ni?o gifted by Ferdinand Magellan to the recently-baptized queen of Cebu. The image was re-discovered by a Spanish soldier amidst the ashes of a burning settlement.
The feast begins with an early morning fluvial procession marking the arrival of the Spaniards and Catholicism. The procession follows after a Mass; "sinulog" refers to the dance performed by the participants in the big procession - two steps forward, one step back, it's said to resemble the movements of the river current.
Participants dance to the beat of drums, shouting "Pit Se?or! Viva Sto. Ni?o!" as they move the procession along.
Moriones Festival
Marinduque
April 18-24
The province of Marinduque celebrates Lent with a colorful festival commemorating the Roman soldiers who helped crucify Christ. The celebrations begin on Holy Monday, and end on Easter Sunday.
Townsfolk wear masks patterned after Roman soldiers, taking part in a masquerade dramatizing the search for a Roman centurion who converted after Christ's blood healed his blind eye.
The festivities coincide with the reading and dramatization of the Passion of Christ, re-enacted in different towns throughout Marinduque. Penitents can be seen whipping themselves in atonement for this year's sins.
Panagbenga (Baguio Flower Festival)
Baguio City
February 26
The mountain city of Baguio celebrates its flower season with - what else? - a flower fiesta! Every February, the city holds a parade with floral floats, tribal festivities, and street parties, with the scent of flowers creating a unique signature for this equally-unique celebration.
The word "panagbenga" is Kankana-ey for "blooming season". Baguio is the Philippines' foremost center for flowers, so it's only appropriate that the city's biggest festival centers around its chief export. Other festivities include a BAguio Flower beauty pageant, concerts at the local SM Mall, and other exhibits sponsored by the local government and foreign sponsors.
Maleldo Lenten Rites
San Pedro Cutud, San Fernando, Pampanga
April 17-24
Maleldo is best described as Extreme Lent: San Pedro Cutud village in Pampanga celebrates what is perhaps the bloodiest Good Friday spectacle in the world, as penitents flagellate themselves with burillo whips and have themselves literally nailed to crosses.
The tradition began in the 1960s, as locals volunteered to have themselves crucified to seek God's forgiveness or blessings. Many more followed, with hundreds making the "panata" (vow) over the years. Today, both men and women undergo the excruciating ritual.
In 2006, Scottish broadcaster Dominik Diamond volunteered to join the penitents, hoping to have his ordeal captured for UK television. Unfortunately, he chickened out just as it was his turn to be nailed up. ("God made me cancel my own crucifixion", Times Online.)
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Labels: Fiestas, Philippines
